In October 2023, we traveled to Colombia to visit the Huila region alongside Jean and Juan Felipe from OPCE and Bryan Smith, who introduced us to Javier Alvear and his entire family. Bryan represents the SATUS association, an umbrella group under which 60 families produce differentiated coffees. Javier Alvear and his family are part of this group, and on their farm they cultivate this varietal that we instantly fell in love with — a coffee we return to year after year and that has already built a true legion of fans.
The Ají varietal is highly distinctive, with a delicate floral and spiced character. Its white floral notes bring elegance and subtlety, while pink pepper adds a vibrant, aromatic nuance. In the cup, passion fruit appears — juicy and expressive — bringing freshness and bright acidity. It has a medium body and a well-defined personality.
A luminous and exceptional coffee.
HISTORY
Javier Alvear has a lifetime of experience in the coffee industry. His family's connection to coffee production dates back several generations, always in the Huila region of Colombia.
Javier started as a coffee picker and quickly realized that his true passion was in production. He traveled across Colombia, studying different coffee-growing regions and working in the industry. Eventually, he was able to return to his hometown with some savings and take over the family farm where he grew up—Las Brisas.
With the unwavering support of his family, he embarked on a journey into specialty coffee, leading him to produce this unique coffee that immediately captivated us the moment we discovered it.
VARIETAL AND PROCESS
The Borbón Ají is specific to Huila. However, after several genetic studies, it was discovered that it is not a Bourbon variety but rather an endemic mutation of the region with Ethiopian origins. These varietals, which have naturally adapted to a specific terrain and conditions over time without deliberate human intervention, are known as Ethiopian Criollo or Ethiopian Landrace in English.
This new varietal was discovered when pickers noticed a unique, spicy scent around the plants. While harvesting the cherries, they felt a slight tingling sensation on their skin, which led to the varietal's distinctive name: Ají, in honor of the spicy chili pepper.
RECIPE
We use 20 grams of ground coffee and 340 grams of water at 93°C. We brew in three pours: first 54 grams, wait 45 seconds, then two pours of 143 grams each, for a total brew time of 2’25”.
